Newsletter

August 2024

Welcome to the third issue of our newsletter for English speakers in Görlitz. This month we have fabulous contributions from members of our community. This year is the 400th anniversary of Jacob Böhme's death, and Gary tells us more about this important Görlitzer from the past. And though we in Görlitz are a little bit envious, we congratulate the nearby town of Herrnhut on their designation this year as UNESCO World Heritage Site and Rebecca from Herrnhut tells us more about her special town. Finally, we meet a creative member of our community and hear about a hidden water palace just across the border. Enjoy!

In this issue...

• Jacob Boehme: Görlitz’s Mystic Shoemaker and Cosmic Visionary by Gary Kapluggin
• On Herrnhut – A Young UNESCO World Heritage Site Full of Tradition by Rebecca N. Smith
• Meet Our Members – Morgana, Mural Artist from Italy by Tessa Enright
• Hidden Places: Joachimstein Water Palace by Tessa Enright

Jacob Boehme: Görlitz’s Mystic Shoemaker and Cosmic Visionary by Gary Kapluggin

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In the heart of Görlitz, where the cobblestone streets whisper tales of history and the buildings stand as timeless sentinels, lived a man whose visions stretched beyond the confines of the physical world. Jacob Boehme, born in 1575, was no ordinary resident. By day, he was a humble shoemaker, crafting footwear with meticulous care. By night, he was a philosopher, a mystic, and a visionary, unraveling the mysteries of the universe from his modest workshop.

Boehme's journey into the realm of mysticism began with a series of profound spiritual experiences. One day, while attending to his cobbling duties, he gazed into a beam of sunlight reflected in a pewter dish. This seemingly mundane moment became a catalyst for an inner revelation. He saw a vision of the unity of the cosmos, the interconnectedness of all things, and the divine order of the universe. Imagine having an epiphany so grand while polishing a pair of boots!

This revelation propelled Boehme into a world of mystical contemplation. He began to write about his insights, creating a body of work that would perplex and inspire for centuries. His first book, “Aurora,” penned in 1612, was an ambitious attempt to articulate his vision. It was a heady mix of theology, philosophy, and cosmology, all woven together with the thread of Boehme’s profound spiritual insight. It wasn’t exactly light reading for the average citizen of Görlitz, but it marked the beginning of Boehme’s journey as a mystic writer.

The local clergy, however, were not amused. Görlitz’s ecclesiastical authorities found Boehme’s ideas heretical and banned his writings. But as history often shows, nothing piques public curiosity quite like a good ban. Boehme’s ideas began to spread, quietly at first, among those who were seeking deeper spiritual truths.

Boehme's writings delved into the nature of God, the duality of good and evil, and the intricate workings of the universe. He saw the divine as a dynamic, living reality, constantly interacting with creation. His concept of the “Ungrund,” or the abyss, described an indescribable void from which all existence sprang forth. It was a head-spinning idea, the sort that would have made your average Görlitz resident reach for another pint of beer.

Despite the controversy, Boehme’s works gained traction. His ability to blend Christian mysticism with elements of alchemy and astrology created a unique philosophical framework. His writings attracted the attention of notable thinkers across Europe. Even in his lifetime, Boehme had a following that extended beyond the sleepy town of Görlitz.

One of his most significant contributions was his exploration of the human soul’s journey. Boehme believed that every individual had the potential to transcend the material world and unite with the divine. This wasn’t a straightforward path, though. It involved inner struggle, self-awareness, and a deep connection to the spiritual realm. Boehme’s insights into the soul’s evolution were as profound as they were complex, and they resonated with those seeking a deeper understanding of their existence.

Boehme's influence continued to grow posthumously. His ideas permeated the works of later philosophers and theologians. Figures like Hegel, Newton, and William Blake found inspiration in Boehme’s mystical visions. His writings were translated into several languages, ensuring that his legacy would endure.

Today, Görlitz remembers Jacob Boehme not just as a shoemaker, but as a spiritual luminary. His life is a testament to the idea that profound wisdom can emerge from the most unexpected places. So next time you stroll through the picturesque streets of Görlitz, spare a thought for Jacob Boehme—the cobbler who dared to stitch together the fabric of the universe with threads of divine insight. Cheers to that!

On Herrnhut – A Young UNESCO World Heritage Site Full of Tradition by Rebecca N. Smith

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A little-big town in the middle of southern Upper Lusatia, in the district of Görlitz, a big-little town with the official status of “city” in spite of its just under 6,000 residents. A town with a unique history, a history which informs its present-day in varied ways.

Take a walk down the street with me. You may well notice architecture which is atypical for Upper Lusatia. When we meet fellow passers-by on the street – also often atypical for Germany yet quite usual here – we greet each other, whether we know each other or not!

There are reasons behind this “differentness”, and also for the fact that Herrnhut is now on the UNESCO World Heritage list, along with three other settlements of the Moravian Church, or in German: Herrnhuter Brudergemeine.

What makes Herrnhut so different? At 302 years old it's very young in the context of Upper Lusatia and Central Europe. It was founded by and for people who believed differently than the majority where they came from, coming here when the Count von Zinzendorf gifted them land and the space to live, be and believe as they saw fit. This group became the Moravian Brethren Church and the town they founded, Herrnhut. The name itself can be translated as “under the protection of the Lord” (“unter dem (Ob-)Hut des Herrns”).

The historical core of the town is built on these guiding principles, with great focus on equality and on community reflected even in the architecture. Faith, pragmatism, simplicity, community – the church also took these convictions to other parts of the world, which is why Herrnhut shares this recognition with three other Moravian settlements – in Denmark, N. Ireland and the USA. This connection with the “rest of the world” is palpable in Herrnhut, as well. The town has a somewhat international feel to it.

What is there to see or experience in Herrnhut today? There are actually quite a few different possibilities for day trips or vacations in Herrnhut, such as paying a visit to the church, including the standing exhibition on the church's history; the “Gottesacker” or cemetery, with its flat tombstones and a men's side and a women's side; through the cemetery a path goes on up to the top of the hill where we can climb the Lookout Tower (Aussichtsturm; key available at Tourist-Info or the bookstore). Herrnhut also boasts not one but two museums – the Ethnographic Museum and the local or “Heimat” Museum.

One other claim to fame are the “Herrnhuter Sterne”, the “Moravian Stars” which come out in full force at Christmastime yet are present year-round in their birthplace, Herrnhut, where the production plant is open to the public year-round. There you can see and hear how they got started and how they are made today. There is also a café there and fun for children.

Speaking of cafés, the old train station is full of life again with a café I can warmly recommend, along with several other shops – flowers, organic food, cloth and gifts... Further exploration can lead to further discoveries – swimming pool, other shops and gastronomic options, the Sculpture Path, and more. Cultural activities are also common – there are for example wonderful concerts held in the church building.

Tree-lined avenues or pathways lead the way to the next town, Berthelsdorf, where the Zinzendorf family had an estate and many early Herrnhuters lived. There are also connections between Zinzendorf and nearby Großhennersdorf. So – whether you come for an afternoon, a day, or a longer stay, you are warmly welcome and will certainly find it an enriching undertaking!

Meet Our Members – Morgana, Mural Artist from Italy by Tessa Enright

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If you are new to Görlitz, the first thing you are always asked is: why are you here? Morgana comes from Brescia, Italy and the story of how she ended up living in Görlitz is not a short one, though the reasons - love and proximity to family - are familiar to many of us in the English speaking community. She began learning German so she could study in Vienna – where she planned to stay temporarily with a boyfriend. The boyfriend didn’t last, but she remained in the Austrian city – studying at university and working in an Italian lingerie shop, but never really finding the right fit.

While Morgana was back in Italy for a while to think about her next move, her mother injured her shoulder. The young physiotherapist treating her was studying with Erasmus and just learning the language, but he spoke English. Morgana accompanied her mother to the appointments to help translate and that’s where she met Patryk from Poznań. “He was very brave to ask for my phone number.”

Morgana and Patryk spent nearly every day together for the remaining months of Patryk's year with Erasmus. What started as a summer fling had become something more serious and Patryk told Morgana, “Just tell me which language I have to learn and I will follow you.”

They began to look for a place to settle down and somehow they arrived at Görlitz - because it was on the border, it would allow them to be closer to Patryk’s family. The magical atmosphere at the Christmas market during one of their first visits had them both fascinated by the city. When Morgana found out that the city also had a lake nearby, she thought “Ok, I can live here.”

The couple have been living in Görlitz since 2020 and have two little boys. They feel at home here and have decided to put down roots, buying a property just across the border in Zgorzelec to build a future home. Patryk now works as a programmer and Morgana works part time in a grocery store, but her real passion lies with her creative talents – she is a mural artist.

“I had an art teacher in middle school who really inspired and motivated me.” The teacher encouraged her to try different mediums and gave her confidence in her abilities. Her father was also instrumental in developing her talents – because her mother liked to redecorate frequently, he would let Morgana help paint the walls and soon her artwork was all over the walls of their home. One day she was inspired by the mural on the wall of her favorite pizza restaurant – because it was not very good and she was sure she could do better.

Because many people in Görlitz rent, they may be hesitant to have murals painted on their walls, but Morgana points out, “When you move out you will have to paint the walls again anyway!” In the meantime, the walls of Morgana’s apartment are covered in her artwork. A place won’t feel like a home if you treat it as somewhere you are just passing through.

Morgana does custom art & interior murals and works closely with the client to come up with a design, working in a variety of styles and mediums. When a client contacts her, they discuss the type of wall (the size, location, texture) and the idea, whether it’s a very specific wish or just a color or theme. She says not to be afraid of the price either – she is willing to work with the client and their budget and her prices are very fair considering how unique and beautiful her murals are.

Morgana wants to cover your wall in her artwork! Whether it’s your kid’s bedroom or your office – contact her to discuss what’s possible and visit her Instagram to see examples of the beautiful work she’s done.

Hidden Places: Joachimstein Water Palace by Tessa Enright

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This forgotten and neglected water palace was once one of the most beautiful in the region, designed and built by the same architects who worked on some of the masterpieces of Baroque architecture in Dresden. Today it lies hidden and empty just across the border in Poland. What history lies within those walls and will it ever be restored to its former glory?

Joachim Sigismund von Ziegler und Klipphausen (let's call him Jogi) came from a noble Upper Lusatian family who inherited the village of Radmeritz (today Radomierzyce in Poland). The small village is about 10 km (6 miles) south of Görlitz just opposite the Neisse River from Hagenwerder and the Berzdorf Lake. The most significant structures in the village are thanks to Jogi’s efforts, including the water palace, the church and the mill.

Jogi was a life-long bachelor and known for his moderation. He decided that he wanted to establish a foundation for the care of unmarried noble women. The women were supposed to be from at least four generations of nobility and to have fallen on hard times financially through no fault of their own. The goal of the foundation was to give the young ladies an appropriate upbringing and to prepare them for the role of wife and mother. This was all during a time period when noble families were frequently falling on hard times. While merchants in cities like Görlitz were experiencing a lot of success, noble families misjudged the changing times and were losing their wealth, so you can begin to see why such a foundation might have been needed.

The palace for noble ladies fallen on hard times is built on an artificial island and surrounded by a moat, at the point where the river Wittig (Witka) and the Neisse meet. Inaugurated in 1728, the construction of the three-wing palace took almost 20 years and included a beautiful garden as well as a tree-lined path all the way around the moat.

In addition to these young noble women, the palace has also provided quarter to many famous historical figures throughout its 300 years. During the Seven Years’ War the Prussian King Frederick the Great was here, and during the Napoleonic Wars General Blucher and Prince Wilhelm were quartered in the palace, along with a volunteer force of the Prussian army called the Lützow Free Corps. These were volunteers who were drawn from all over the numerous German realms, men who felt called by the romantic nationalism of the times. Among them was a man named Theodor Körner, who abandoned his promising career as a dramatist in Vienna and volunteered. He wrote songs and poetry to inspire his fellows. While at the palace he wrote his “Aufruf” or call to the Saxons to rise up against Napoleon.

During WWII a wing of the palace was used to accommodate groups of children who were evacuated from larger cities to protect them from aerial bombing, called the Kinderlandverschickung in German. After the war, Germany’s eastern borders were redrawn and Radmeritz was now in Poland. The noble women who remained living there were expelled and the palace was looted. It remained empty for decades and fell into disrepair.

In 2003 the palace was purchased by an investor who wanted to turn it into a hotel and event venue. A few of the buildings were renovated, including the facades and roofs. But the investor died unexpectedly in 2004 and all renovation work on the palace has since ceased.

Here's the part where I definitely don't encourage you to trespass: The water palace is not exactly open to visitors. If you approach the moat you will find that the main entrance to the palace is shut and there is a barrier with a sign in Polish. Now I’m not fluent in Polish, but I’m pretty sure it doesn’t say “Welcome, come on in!” However, if one were to duck under the barrier, theoretically one could walk all the way around the outside of the moated palace on the tree-lined path. And hypothetically, the views of the palace from the path would be absolutely stunning with the reflection in the water. One can imagine the noble ladies of the 17th century who lived here taking their daily walks along the tree-lined path.

The Joachimstein water palace in Radomierzyce is a beautiful and important historical structure that deserves to be seen and appreciated. I would love to see the palace receive further investments and be opened again to the public and I dream of the day when we can all admire it from the inside!

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